Turfing, levelling and lawn renovation

New lawns, prepared before laid.

Turf is the easy part of a lawn. What happens to the ground in the week before it arrives is what you are actually paying for.

A red petrol mower part way across a stripe of freshly cut green lawn

Getting a lawn to take

Turf laid on compacted builder's subsoil will look wonderful for a fortnight and then go patchy.

  • Old grass and weed stripped off rather than rotavated back in
  • Ground broken up so roots can get down, and compaction relieved
  • Topsoil brought in where there is not enough, and levelled
  • Raked, firmed and raked again, because that is what gets a flat lawn
  • Turf laid within a day of delivery, joints staggered and butted tight
  • Rolled or tamped, watered in, and the first cut left until it has knitted
A mown lawn edged by a deep planted border of grasses and shrubs in summer

Lawns we deal with

New ones, tired ones, and the ones left behind by a builder.

  • New turf

    The whole thing, from stripping out to the first watering instructions.

  • After building work

    Compacted ground, buried rubble and a thin skim of soil. The ground needs sorting before any turf is worth laying.

  • Renovation

    Scarifying, aerating, topdressing and overseeding, where the lawn is tired rather than finished.

  • Levelling

    Hollows, humps and the slow settlement over an old path. Easier to fix before the turf than after.

  • Shaded lawns

    Grass under trees struggles. Sometimes a shade mix, sometimes the honest answer is planting instead.

  • Edges and borders

    A cut edge is most of why a lawn looks cared for. Worth doing properly at the start.

Lawn that needs laying or rescuing?

Measure it roughly and tell us what is there now. We will tell you honestly whether it is a renovation or a new one.

Questions about this job

Autumn is ideal. The ground is warm, the rain does the watering and the lawn knits in before it is walked on. Spring is the next best. Midsummer works but you have to commit to watering it properly, every day, for weeks, or you will have shrunk gaps between the rolls.

Keep off it for two to three weeks beyond what is needed for watering, and leave the first cut until the turf has rooted and the grass is taller than you want it. Take a third off at most with the blades high.

Turf gives you a lawn straight away and costs more. Seed costs very little, takes a season to look like anything and needs keeping off. For a family garden turf usually wins. For a big area, seed is worth the patience.

Often. Most tired lawns are compacted, thatched and hungry rather than dead. Scarifying, aerating, topdressing and overseeding in the autumn brings a surprising number of them back without the cost of a new one.